Text: Diogo Henriques
Photography: from “Ericeira, 50 years later… – Foreign refugees from Second World War,” by José dos Santos Caré Júnior / Mar de Letras Editora
During the Second World War, 43 thousand refugees arrived in Portugal. They settled in major cities, with about 14 thousand in Lisbon, but were later sent to smaller towns like Caldas da Rainha, Figueira da Foz, and Ericeira. The Salazar regime feared political and economic unrest, but this phenomenon had unexpected results: it proved to be an economic success for some and a social modernization phenomenon.
The significant influx of refugees to Portugal was due, on the one hand, to its neutral position in the war and, on the other hand, being the gateway with the easiest access to the much-desired South America and the United States of America.
many refugees ended up staying in Portugal
The Salazarist dictatorial regime intended for Portugal to be merely a transit country for refugees; however, due to the legal limitations of visas imposed by U.S. immigration, many refugees ended up staying in Portugal. Those who stayed, like Fritz Teppich, were arrested for expired visas. Later, the PVDE (Police of Surveillance and Defense of the State) released the refugees, sending them to small towns like Ericeira, with tight surveillance and fixed residence: they could only move a few kilometers, could not have any political affiliation, and were subject to an absolute work prohibition.
Ericeira in the 1940s, before the arrival of refugees
In the midst of dictatorship, Portugal experienced strong censorship of freedom of expression, a very high illiteracy rate, strong religious fervor, conservative customs, and isolation from a Europe in modernization.
The refugees brought habits and customs from a more modern Europe. In Ericeira, the first contact, in Republic Square – also known as ‘Jogo da Bola’ – was shocking but soon sparked curiosity, leading to emancipation.
in “Ericeira, 50 Years Later… – Foreign Refugees from Second World War,” by José dos Santos Caré Júnior / Mar de Letras Editora
In 1940, Ericeira had 3100 inhabitants who survived on artisanal fishing, with small boats powered by oars and sails, and on seaside tourism during the three summer months. Even at that time, short-term rentals during the summer season were one of the main sources of income for the population, including fishermen who rented their homes to the “gentlemen.”
Before Estoril gained fame as the Costa do Sol, Ericeira beaches were the destination for many upper-class families. Hence, the name “gentlemen” given to the summer visitors who socially and economically animated the village.
Fishing was abundant, but the selling prices practiced at the improvised auction of Praia do Peixe, or Ribeira (now called Praia dos Pescadores), were low. During the winter months, without a fishing port, the sea conditions did not allow for many fishing trips. Thus, the fishermen lived a life of sacrifice throughout the year.
Who were the refugees
Coming to Portugal was extremely difficult, requiring one of two resources, ideally both: money or strong political or religious support. The wealthier ones came by plane, ship, or train. Those coming by train arrived at Rossio, where they could cross a secret passage to Hotel Avenida Palace to enter Lisbon without any police control. To travel to the United States, the wealthier individuals opted for the Clipper seaplanes.
The Yankee Clipper seaplanes were the largest commercial planes in existence. They had two floors and could carry up to 50 passengers. They landed on the Tagus River, on the Cabo Ruivo runway, and flew to New York. Speed of 300 kilometers per hour at an altitude of 2500 meters. The journey lasted only 27 hours, much faster than the maritime alternative: a ship that took between ten to twelve days.
This luxurious service was marketed by the Pan American airline. The price of a ticket today would be equivalent to 8,000 euros. An extravagance reflected in the luxurious interior of these planes: porcelain table services, crystal glasses, caviar, champagne, living room, dining room, bar, and foldable beds for the crew. Despite the luxury, there were many stories of passengers who felt nauseous throughout the journey and did not enjoy the sumptuous food served on board.
Before the war, Lisbon hotels had low occupancy rates. Overnight, the Portuguese capital became a famous destination, and hotels overflowed with refugees. “It was not easy to find a room in a Lisbon hotel between 1940 and 1942.” *a. The Chave de Ouro café in Rossio Square was always full, shoeshiners were always busy. There were foreigners from the Allied Union and others from the Nazi party, all coexisting in the same city. At night, Lisbon was known as the City of Light because it was one of the few European cities that kept public lighting on. Most European capitals remained in the dark to avoid bombings. Millionaires and celebrities occupied the luxurious hotels of the capital. Calouste Gulbenkian was one of them, permanently hosted at the Aviz hotel.
Fritz Teppich wrote the book “A Refugee in Ericeira”
To reach Portugal, it was necessary to obtain a passport, an exit visa, secure transportation, cross a Spain (still in the aftermath of a violent civil war) highly monitored by the police, and finally, cross the border into Portugal. The number of refugees who successfully reached their destination was quite small compared to those who wished to do so.
Fritz Teppich, a Jewish refugee, began his escape from Belgium when this country was invaded by German armies. With much effort and after many kilometers, he managed to reach Lisbon. Later, he was arrested for his expired visa. In prison, he met the leader of the Portuguese Communist Party, Joaquim Pires Jorge, imprisoned by PIDE (International and State Defense Police). Fritz Teppich was sent with a fixed residence to Ericeira, where he stayed for several years, made friends, and fell in love. He wrote the book “A Refugee in Ericeira” (“Um Refugiado na Ericeira”), where he recounted his experience.
To stay in Portugal, refugees without fortunes relied on the support of organizations or religious institutions. The financial assistance they received allowed them to lead an economically comfortable life, as they earned incomes significantly higher than the average income of the Portuguese. As Fritz Teppich recounts in his book, “I continued to receive 750 escudos monthly from the Jewish Community. It would always be more than what a prison guard earned and double the salary of a worker.” With this support, refugees could spend in the village’s cafes and bars and stay in private homes or guesthouses, such as the case of Pensão Morais in Ericeira, which hosted many refugees.
in “Ericeira, 50 Years Later… – Foreign Refugees from Second World War,” by José dos Santos Caré Júnior / Mar de Letras Editora
Refugees in Ericeira
They arrived by bus and got off at Praça da República, also known today as ‘Jogo da Bola.’ People of many nationalities, professions, and different social classes. A mixture of the various corners of an unknown Europe in Portugal. Many stayed at Pensão Morais or in private homes. They spent their days at Café Salvador or indulging in the famous pastries at Casa das Cavacas.
With the refugees staying in Ericeira, there were behaviors that had never been witnessed before. For example, a young couple kissing in public caused surprise and astonishment. Also, the pre-marital cohabitation of young couples left many people confused and shocked.
in “Ericeira, 50 Years Later… – Foreign Refugees from Second World War,” by José dos Santos Caré Júnior / Mar de Letras Editora
They caused some shock but were never a cause of conflicts; on the contrary, they represented a form of liberation and modernization of behaviors.
It was at the dances in the cafes and local recreation societies that refugees started dancing with other refugees and local women. Music and dance reduced the cultural and social distance among everyone. This was where women from outside, without any ceremony, would approach both foreign and local men.
i’ve never noticed any envy or animosity towards us in the village
During the day, many would take walks and be approached by locals offering them rides to help, thinking they might be lost or stranded. Only a few years later did walks start becoming a local habit.
Around this time, in 1942, no girl or woman frequented any of the three cafes in Ericeira (Bijou-Arcada, Café Salvador, and Casa das Cavacas). However, as soon as the refugee women started frequenting these places, local women immediately joined. The same happened with the ponytail hairstyle – quite common for its practicality, it was also quickly adopted by the local women
“Ericeira, 50 Years Later… – Foreign Refugees from Second World War,” by José dos Santos Caré Júnior / Mar de Letras Editora
Fritz Teppich testified, “I didn’t know anyone among these good people whose entire family even came close to our monthly income. We also had a doctor and free medication, and we could occasionally request money for clothing expenses.” Despite these contrasts and all the hardships that a significant portion of Ericeira’s families endured, the author adds, “(…) I never noticed any envy or animosity towards us in the village, nor any hostility towards foreigners.”
This village embraced by the Atlantic, caressed by the northerly winds and by the blue of the sea that extends from North to South, was, for decades (or even centuries…), a land of few people, with few resources, and conservative habits. Its people welcomed with open arms others from a distant Europe with different habits, languages, and customs. Initially, they found it strange, but later they made friends and integrated the new habits.
this coexistence contributed to freeing us from the obscurantism felt in our country
The refugees brought a breath of fresh air and economically revitalized the businesses and socially the people of this land.
“This same coexistence with other people, other nations, and other cultures contributed, in a way, to freeing us from the cultural and social obscurantism felt in our country.” Júnior J. 1995 Ericeira 50 years later…
*ª Neil L. (2012) Lisbon
Esta publicação também está disponível em | This article is also available in: Portuguese (Portugal)
