Text: Monica Garau | Photography: Alex Papis
The first wave is a strong beat and breaks against the reef.
In the second one i recognize its inconstant rhythm when it rises, curves, smashes and slides until the white foam touches the water’s edge. The third wave shakes me and reminds me where i am: standing in front of the ocean, grabbing my surfboard with one arm, the feet in the sand and the salt on my lips. The fourth one is the strongest, it must be the biggest of the set with its magnificent shape and height. The fifth wave is smoother, the set is ending and i am finally aware.
My eyes are closed while the ocean’s breeze caresses my body and i take consciousness of every muscles, my skin, my disordered curly hair on the face, the feet and hands. All my body enlivens and again it beats and ripples like i would be already in the waves.
I smile, breathing deep the soul of the ocean and i know what i am going to see: straight in front of me there’s my small bay, the cliffs and the vastness of the Atlantic. I feel ready and i open my eyes, i am ready to bathe, ready to slide on the waves and i’m excited to feel the cold water wrapping my body.
I run, i jump in and in one second i feel alive.
The board helps me to reach the line up, i ride a couple of small waves but the next one is bigger and i know that is going to break on me. I breath deeply, i look at it, it’s running in my direction and i dive while the ocean is receiving me sweetly for the first time today. I re-emerge feeling my heart beating, i paddle more and my senses tell me to stop and seat on the board.
My dream came true again.
I’m finally in the middle of the ocean, the morning sky shines like a mirror on the water, i am alone with the horizon in front of me and i hear clearly the breaks right behind my shoulders. I wait, enchanted and relaxed. A peaceful feeling surrounds me and i turn one moment to look up the window of my room from where in the morning the ocean called me.
I turn again and i spot a set coming, the first wave shapes in front of me, i paddle against it and i let it pass under me. The second one is coming, i turn around, i’m ready. I lie on the board, my body in tension, my soul burns of excitement because i want to ride it. Every time i choose a wave its like a new possibility and a new start for me.
It finally comes, i paddle and it pushes me. Three, four paddles more, strong in my body and in my mind, i stand. I slide and i feel that i am one together with the ocean.
My dream came true again. What could i ask more?
I want to live like surfing.
Portugal, Summer 2018
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You can read the first part of this poetic short story here.