Magic Quiver hosts “Understanding the Ocean From a surfer’s perspective”


Photograph: ARR


Saturday (October 20) Magic Quiver surf shop hosts the workshop “Understanding the Ocean From a surfer’s perspective”: for any­one who loves the sea and wants to under­stand it bet­ter.

This Surf Science event will be taught by Tony Butt, an oceanographer, writer, Patagonia ambassador, Chief Forecaster at Magicseaweed and big wave surfer. He started surfing in the early 70’s. After many years of traveling and surfing different spots around the world—spots that have now become well-known and crowded, he started wondering where the waves came from and decided to go back to school and obtained a PhD in Physical Oceanography. He authored the books: Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing and The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates.

Being out in big surf is about being close to nature, not conquering it; it is about understanding nature and understanding yourself.

In this workshop you will get an insight into where waves are originated, what happens to them as they travel towards the coast and why they are the way they are when we surf them, in addition to some knowledge into how to read weather charts and how to make the best of the forecasting resources. You will have time to debate and ask all your questions.

Tickets are €50 and include a goodie bag and lunch at our Deli. The number of tickets is strictly limited. Please email to book your attendance. All attendees are eligible for a 25% discount at our Magic Quiver Surf Lodge.

Approximate content of the workshop:

1. Introduction and basic concepts
Anatomy of a wave
Where do waves come from?
Basic weather charts

2. Generation of waves on the ocean surface
The wind around a low pressure
Capillary waves
Linear and exponential growth
Limiting factors

3. Propagation of free-travelling swell
Difference between windsea and swell
Circumferential dispersion
Radial dispersion
The formation of wave groups

4. When the waves approach the coast
Wave velocity in shallow water
Concave and concave refraction
Wave shoaling and height transformation
Wave breaking

Esta publicação também está disponível em | This article is also available in: Portuguese (Portugal)