“He’s discovered surfing recently…”


Text and photography: Sónia Nunes


He’s discovered surfing recently…
it was random… in a conversation with friends.

A challenge… accepted.

He became addicted.

That adrenaline… that feeling of freedom.
That touch of Ericeira’s sea.

That feeling of being part of something bigger…
… something else… he couldn’t tell, or explain to anyone.

He didn’t even want to.

It was in the sea, alone…

The board and he, only.

It was there, in that ripple, that he was.

Far away… from everything, from everyone.

He went astray… lost himself within.

And when he woke up from this state…
happy… he’d be looking for the wave!

The wave that would take him now to this very moment.
The one that’d show him that he was capable
of winning everything… all the challenges.

And when he could reach the pleasure of sliding in the sea…
standing, firm, in balance.

He felt so complete, with joy,
strong… he felt unstoppable.

It was with a huge smile… he’d be coming out of the sea.

Proud, fearless… ready to seize life.

Esta publicação também está disponível em | This article is also available in: Portuguese (Portugal)